Best bike lights of 2025 - Tried and tested options for night time riding

The best bike lights fall into one of two categories. The first - 'be seen' lights - are bright enough to attract the attention of other road users around you, but not quite bright enough to light up the road ahead of you. Both front and rear options fall into this category, and the majority of budget lights fall here too. 

Secondly, are the 'see' lights, in that they help you see where you are going when riding in the dark. These naturally also serve to make you more visible too, but are brighter and often more expensive. Only front lights fall into this category, of course, and a lot of riders bolster their 'seeing' front light with a 'be seen' auxiliary one too. 

I've got first-hand experience with nearly all the lights in this guide, and on the few occasions where I don't, I'm drawing on my colleagues' direct feedback after substantial testing of their own. 

The basic need for ll bike lights is be bright enough for their intended use, have a battery that lasts long enough for your intended journey, and robust enough to deal bad weather. Each light in this list fits the bill in these regards, so it's just a matter of picking the best setup for your intended use, and your budget. 

In the guide below I've made my suggestions as clear as possible, but if you are left with more questions, there's an FAQ section at the bottom of the page to help guide you through.

Quick list

Tested by

Tested by

Will Jones

Having spent the last decade without a turbo trainer I have lost count of the number of hours I've spent riding only by the light of whatever is clipped to my bars, or slung beneath my bike computer in recent years, both on and off-road. Bike lights are a necessity for many of us, but in my opinion they can be as transformative for your winter riding as mudguards and proper winter layering. 

Best front bike lights

Best front bike light overall

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If you want the ultimate, all-singing, all-dancing front road light then this is where you should be spending your money. The Exposure Strada is a wonderful light and I used it all winter last year and it didn't skip a beat. Yes, it's expensive, and yes, there is a learning curve, but it's got so much going for it that you can look past those things if your pockets are deep enough.

The beam is extremely well shaped. It doesn't have quite the same hard upper cutoff as the Outbound Lighting Detour, but in order to not blind drivers it has a party trick up its sleeve. Switch on 'Aktiv' mode and the light senses oncoming headlights and automatically dips the beam until they have passed. It's much like swapping from full beam to dipped in your car, if you have one, and is utterly seamless. You can switch it off, but I couldn't think of a reason to. 

The initial setup is a bit of a faff, whereby you have to select from a list of 7 options of brightness groupings, each option containing three different brightnesses that you can cycle between, either through the bottom on the rear or via a wired-in button you can mount to your bars, but once you have your desired setup it's about as fit-and-forget as you can get.

It's hefty, but if, like me, you're fitting it to a winter bike with mudguards and a frame pump and aren't using it for a hill climb it isn't really an issue. The weight does mean I strongly recommend you use a metal computer mount if you're slinging it beneath your computer. I initially fitted it under the plastic mount that came with my Hammerhead Karoo 2, which snapped on a descent and sent the light and computer tumbling down the road at warp speed. The light was still working when I found it, despite the massive impact it had taken, a testament to the brilliant build quality of these things. 

The massive internal battery is what allows this light to have such enormous battery life, and if this light wasn't also the 'best overall' it would certainly be down as 'best battery life'. It is about as good as a bike light gets, and only really gets market down for the size and weight (which are necessary for its performance) and the high RRP. 

If you want more details then head to our Exposure Strada Mk11 SB AkTIV review. It is the previous model, but the changes to the Mk12 are very minor so the majority of it is still relevant. 

Best budget front bike light

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The AMPP900 is the successor to the venerable old Volt 800, a light I bought around a decade ago and is still going to this day, despite the light itself being discontinued. The AMPP900 takes a lot of what I loved about the Volt 800 and builds upon it. 

The brightness, 900 lumens at its brightest with three brightnesses and two flashing modes, is just about right to fulfil commuter duties without being overkill, whilst still just about being bright enough for forays into proper night time riding. I'm not going to pretend you're going to have as well-lit a time as you will with more premium, brighter options, but if your night riding involves a dark commute and the odd pre-dawn or post-dusk jaunt in the winter then it's perfectly adequate.

The old Volt used a replaceable battery. I never needed to replace mine, and it did seem an odd thing to build into a light. The AMPP900 is a self-contained unit and has made the switch to USB-C. One thing that has also improved in this regard is the space around the charging port recess. On old models, it was a little small meaning only certain leads would fit, but here it's dead roomy. 

You can, with an adapter, mount it under a computer using a GoPro style slot mount, but I find it's a light best suited to being on the bars. The universal FlexTight bracket has enough capacity to cope with round bars to proper deep winged aero bars, and has a pivot point meaning if your bars have backsweep you can keep the light pointing forwards. You could even mount it sideways on a fork blade if the mood took you. I found the little rubber insert a bit prone to falling out, so keep an eye on it. 

There is an 800-lumen version that's a bit cheaper, and if you're only commuting then you can get away with the AMPP500, a worthy competitor for the Knog Blinder 600 for the best commuter option.

One thing I did fall foul of is that, when running it at full power, it won't automatically swap to a lower intensity beam when the battery level drops; it'll just cut out, so remember to keep it charged. to find out all the other key details from my time with this light then have a read of my Cateye AMPP900 review. 

Best front bike light for beam shape

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The Outbound Lighting Detour is visibly a bit of a departure from your more standard, tube shaped bike lights. It's wider, with two giant hemisphere reflectors and a prominent, almost frowning brow. One big button set between sets of cooling fins on the top controls things, cycling through the four main beam modes and two strobe patterns. 

The slightly odd visuals are a result of the Detour's engineering to create a 'shaped beam'. Effectively instead of having the LEDs pointing directly outwards creating a cone of light, the diodes point downwards within the body of the light, and are shaped by a pair of conical reflectors to project the beam outwards. This means that the upper half of the beam is truncated, meaning everything above the top edge of the light body (assuming it is mounted horizontally) isn't blinded. This means pedestrians don't get annoyed, and it means cars can see you, but aren't so blinded by your light that they can't see anything else.

I found the build quality to be excellent, and while having a rubberised body is unusual, it makes it easier to handle. The bar mount is well designed and secure, and enables you to mount the detour above, inline, or below your bars, but I opted to sling it beneath my bike computer. In this orientation it's more out of the way, but I do think it looks a little bulbous compared to most other options on the market. Still, I do think aesthetics are a secondary consideration to how well it actually lights. 

The shaped beam means you aren't 'wasting' lumens lighting up things above your eyeline, so you can get away with running it on a lower power than you perhaps would with a standard conical beam, which aids the battery life even more. 

Should you ever run low on power - say you are a masochist and regularly embark on through-the-night epics - you can plug the Detour into a power bank and charge it up while it is still in use. The cable included creates a weather-sealed connection, but this does still rely on you having a way of waterproofing the power bank if it does rain. 

In short, I think the Detour is an excellent do it all option. The price is affordable for what is on offer. The only real drawback I'd say is that it isn't really suitable for technical off-road riding. The cutoff beam is fine on fire roads, but in tricky terrain you're going to want a classic cone shape so you can see if there are trees/rocks/cliff edges coming up fast. 

One final party trick up the Detour's sleeve is the default 'Adaptive' mode. When you turn the light on it'll begin on full power, but then slowly reduce the brightness over the course of half an hour as your eyes get used to the darkness, improving the battery life in the process. 

For all the ins and outs we have a full review of the Outbound Detour that should help answer any other questions you might have. 

Best front bike light for commuters

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Of all the lights I've had in for testing this one also wins the 'works best as a torch' award. Unclip it from the mount and it is basically a wee little handheld torch, which is surprisingly handy. Yes, the others work for that purpose too, but not so well.

Anyway, this isn't Torch Weekly or some such publication. The Knog Blinder Pro 600 ticks all the boxes for a great commuter light. the 600 lumen brightness is enough to keep absent minded taxi drivers paying attention, but not so bright you're going to blind anyone coming towards you. 

The mount is easy-on and easy-off, a lot faster than the AMPP900 for example, and you can remove the light from the mount just by pulling it off with a click. It'll mount upside down in the mount if you want to sling it under your bars, but unlike the GoPro mount that comes with the brighter Blinder Pro 900 there is no cam lock on the bracket so I'd stick to having it up top if I were you. 

You can get a GoPro mount from Knog directly if you want to sling it beneath your computer for a very neat setup, and I've done this on more racy bikes when I want to use it as a daytime running light when out in the countryside. It does have a tendency to slide forwards or backwards in the mount though, so I'm still in two minds about how I feel about having it suspended. 

Best bike light for gravel

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Much like with the Exposure Strada below there's a bit of a learning curve to get over for the Exposure Race. You use the single rear button to select from 10 different preselected brightness options. Once your program is selected you can then use the button on the fly to cycle between the options you want. Some have two brightness options, some have three, but each is etched onto the underside along with how it impacts the battery life.

What's really neat about the Race, which is technically an MTB light, is that the maximum lumens aren't available outside of program modes with 'Reflex' options. Basically if you have Reflex on the light increases the brightness as your speed increases, and it learns your top speed so is constantly adapting to your riding. This means that when you're picking up speed you haven't got to take your hands off the bars (hard to do on rough terrain) to switch modes, and it also conserves the battery versus just leaving it on high all the time.

For gravel I find 1,200 lumens (or the boosted Reflex mode) to be ample - if you need more then bigger MTB lights like the Monteer 12,000 are available for specialist applications - but be aware the light cone is unshaped, and when at its brightest can be quite dazzling for other road or trail users.

Another reason I really rate the Race for gravel is the mounts are absolute rock solid. The bar mounts are great, but even slung beneath a (full metal) out front computer mount there's never a worry of things coming loose or falling off. Everything is well engineered, and if you do cock up somehow as I did with the Strada the lights are so bombproof it'll likely be fine. 

For a more thorough run down of why I think this is such a good light for gravel head to my Exposure Race review which expands on a lot of the points I've mentioned here.  

Best front bike light for daytime running

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This light was previously under the Bontrager logo, but as with many things it's been brought under the Trek umbrella. You'll still see some labelled as Bontrager, but they're identical. The Ion 200 RT is perfect for those who want a small, unobtrusive, but powerful daytime running light to make sure oblivious motorists notice you.

Tiny, but mighty. The lumen count is low but the light is claimed to be visible 2km away. I haven't tested this, mostly because the roads near me are all too wiggly and hilly, but this long-range visibility is down to a combination of an attention grabbing flash pattern and a front lens that focuses more of the beam forwards. 

The small form factor means you can slip it onto your bars and forget it's there, or even mount it to your helmet without really noticing it's attached. Some helmets, like the Bontrager Circuit WaveCel have inbuilt mounts for the front and the rear version of the light, if daylight visibility is your thing. 

There is a continuous light mode that can just about allow you to get home in the city, but that's really not what this light is about. It's an auxiliary add-on, and that's where it works best. 

Brightest front bike light

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Ok, so the 'brightest' title isn't strictly true as there are brighter lights out there. The Magicshine Monteer 12,000 is substantially brighter, but you have to carry around something akin to a car battery and that's just not feasible for most people. For gravel, the MAXX-D is the brightest you'd ever need before graduating into fully fledged MTB lights. I'd actually probably say it's brighter than you'd need, and point you in the direction of the Exposure Race instead, but if your riding is MTB+Grav rather than Road+Grav, the MAXX-D makes more sense. 

You get the legendary Exposure build quality, beautifully machined aluminium housing, rear display readout, and really solid (if a little fiddly) mounting brackets that you get with the Race and Strada, but here you have 4x big LED bulbs to produce a very bright, spread beam. 

As with the other Exposure models you select from a menu of program options (10 in this case), which then loads in the brightness settings that you can change on the fly. It takes a bit of time to get your head around, but generally speaking if you invest the time it means you can get the maximum amount of light for any duration ride. 

Like the Race you also get Reflex mode, where the light will automatically up the brightness (to 4,600 in this case) when your speed increases, which is there both to save battery on the climbs and help you go faster on descents. 

Given its size it does dominate the handlebar real estate if mounted on top of the bars, and is a little too long to be mounted beneath those computer mounts that bold directly to your stem. For under-bar mounting use a K-Edge computer mount, or just stick your computer on your stem instead. 

The charger is proprietary, which is a drawback, and it does take ages to charge, but that's what happens when you have such a whopping battery inside. The light has been updated since I received my test unit, though the changes are minimal - A slightly higher maximum brightness, and a tweaked beam shape. 

Best rear bike lights

Best rear bike light overall

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There's an awful lot to like about the Magicshine SEEMEE 300. It does many of the same things as the Exposure Boost-R, and some more, for a lower price, and so to my mind it's equal best overall, and the best value of the bunch. It lacks the nifty Peloton mode for group riding, and isn't quite so sleek, but if form factor isn't your main concern then it's well worth consideration.

The party piece is a HUGE battery life. This is mostly down to having a comparatively huge battery built in, and while this makes it a bit more chunky it's my view that anything not in your eyeline while riding doesn't really matter so much. The mounts included, based on a miniaturised 1/4 turn socket as you'd find on a Garmin bike computer, are rock solid, and it comes with both a seatpost and a saddle rail mount.

As well as lasting forever, there are a few smart features too. I really like the downward pointing LED that illuminates everything underneath the rear of the bike with a red glow, making you seem bigger than a single light source ordinarily would.

Like the Boost-R it can also act as a brake light, and it can also adapt to ambient lighting conditions in order to conserve battery and maximise visibility. If you ever find yourself running out of juice (a rarity if you at least remember to charge it semi-regularly) it'll automatically revert to low power mode and turn off the brake light function to get you home.

The build quality is excellent too, so in combination with the solid mounts I wouldn't have any qualms about popping it on a gravel bike. If you want to know even more about why I think this is the best rear light out there then read my Magicshine SEEMEE300 review. 

Best budget rear bike light

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You can think of the Knog Blinder Rear as just a really good version of those cheap clip on lights you see the world over on bikes in the city. Those, in my experience, aren't made well, aren't overly bright, and don't last long either physically or in terms of battery life. 

If you're after a relatively inexpensive but visible light you can just clip onto your seatpost in seconds then this is a great place to start. The giant square face is an array of 144 small LEDs, meaning in constant mode you get a large light area. What's really neat though is that the flashing modes aren't simple on/off variants. In my version, the central portion varies from the outer rim in a bullseye pattern, and is much more dynamic. 

You can opt, if it's your thing, for various patterns - skull, peace symbol etc - but I'd just stick with the standard option. I don't think a taxi is necessarily going to be more aware of a skull than a square in the heat of rush hour.

The bracket is a little over-engineered, and it is possible to lose the hinge part, but it is very quick to use. I don't actually think having a direct-USB charging system is that useful, given USB-C is now proliferating as the standard, and not having the body designed so the light sits vertically when mounted to a seatpost is a bit annoying from an aesthetic standpoint but does little if anything to actually affect the visibility of the light. 

Basically it's a great option for commuters and price-savvy riders, but I wouldn't necessarily opt for it for gravel or group riding. 

Best rear bike light for group riding

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Another winning light from Exposure, the Boost-R with ReAKT and Peloton is about as complete a rear light as you're likely to find. Small, beautifully engineered in anodised red aluminium, the Boost-R is really very bright indeed. Before I worked out how to change the settings (like with other Exposure lights it's not as simple as pressing the button to make it dimmer) I had several riders ask me to turn it off if I was in front of them.

You can't cycle through brightnesses, but instead, you select from three power modes and can then only choose between solid and flashing. This doesn't sound ideal on the face of it, but the light has a couple of built in tricks that offset this lack of choice. 

ReAKT is the first, and that means the Boost-R automatically adjusts the brightness depending on the ambient lighting. It'll get brighter under street lights for example, dimming when you head into darker areas. 

The ReAKT mode also comes in handy when riding in a group. Most of my riding is solitary, but when ReAKT is switched on the light flares up under braking, acting in an identical manner to a car. Good for cars and other riders. 

Peloton is the final trick, and with this on the Boost-R will dim when it senses a bike light behind it, flaring up again when the light source is removed. Perfect for a paceline where you want to remain visible at the rear of the bunch, but not blind your clubmates when pulling on the front. 

My only real gripes with the Boost-R are the included seatpost mount, which does tend to twist round, needing the occasional repositioning. My test unit is micro-USB, though the current product has made the switch to USB-C.

Best rear bike light for commuting

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City riding and just general night riding out on the road have different challenges. The city is generally well lit, so being seen from distance isn't necessarily such an issue, but there is a far greater chance of someone (in a car, primarily) coming towards you perpendicular to your direction of travel, and so side visibility is much more important. 

If you're wearing one of the best cycling backpacks you could clip auxiliary lights to the sides, but you could also use the Knog Mid Cobber (a smaller Lil Cobber and taller Big Cobber are also available). They basically take the same LED array as in the Blinder Rear and bend it around your seatpost, so the outermost three or four strips of LEDs on each side are facing directly outwards.

This, in combination with a series of novel flashing patterns where the sides can flash and the centre stays solid, for example, really help you be seen from a greater range of angles. There is an identical set of white versions for the front, which you can mount to your head tube, though side visibility from the front is slightly less of a concern as you will at least have a better chance of seeing what's coming towards you. 

Like the Blinder Rear I found the direct USB connection to be a bit of a pain, and in a world where most lights can be charged by plugging into a USB-C lead from a laptop the Cobber is less convenient. You won't ever lose the cable, but if you're like me you've got about 10,000 random USB-C cables in a drawer already.

One great thing is that an aero seatpost mount is included in the box, so for riding aero bikes, whether commuting or otherwise, you are covered without having to find an aftermarket solution.

Best rear bike light for daytime running

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Everything that is the case for the Trek Ion 200 is also true here, but red. The two are also sold as a pair and make a brilliant daytime running combo that you can easily fit and forget about. 

You get the same disruptive flash pattern, and the same beam that is more focussed rearwards than outwards with the aim of catching drivers' attention from a long way out rather than at close range from all angles. 

The relatively low power does mean I wouldn't necessarily want to run these as my primary night riding lights, though they'd get you home as an auxiliary in a pinch. The low power, on the flip side, means they can be made to have a very small form factor without ending up with a tiny battery life.

Just like the Ion, you can mount the Flare to a helmet without adding any tangible weight, and the same drawbacks in terms of it using the older Micro-USB exist. I'd treat them like a pair to be honest with you, as if you want daytime visibility up front you probably want it from the rear too, perhaps even more so. 

Most powerful rear bike light

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There isn't anything wrong with wanting to fit the brightest rear bike like you can buy in an attempt to stay visible. If that's what you're after then the Lezyne Strip Drive Pro 400+ is the place to go. Its maximum 400 lumen output is massive, several times greater than some on this list, but with that added power does come some drawbacks. 

On country lanes the added brightness will make you more visible from further away, but if you are running it at full power with anyone in close proximity behind you for any length of time (traffic, either bike traffic or cars) and you may run the risk of dazzling other users. SImilarly, it's overkill for group riding, though you can of course select a setting that doesn't use all 400 lumens, which is primarily there for daytime visibility. 

The lower power flash patterns for night time use 80 or 50 lumens, though I am still tempted to just put it at least on the 200 flash for darker riding. In a city the ambient light is greater so there is less contrast if you find yourself overpowered.

There are seven modes on offer, and remembering which one you want takes a bit of dialling in. Cycling through them all takes time, and trying to watch the light for what it is doing does leave you a little stunned - it could really do with a shortcut double-press to cycle between flashing and solid modes I think.

Best rear bike light for safety

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Making other road users (by which I mean cars) see you is the number one aim of any rear bike light. without a mirror you can't see cars coming towards you from behind... Unless you're using one of the new cohort of radar-enabled lights. Of the slew out there the Garmin Varia RTL515 is the original and the best. 

Ignoring the light for a second, the system, mounted to your seatpost or beneath your saddle rails, not only detects when a vehicle is approaching you from behind, but also at what speed. If a car is going to hit you then, sadly, it's not going to stop that from happening, but I find one of the worst things about cycling is when someone close passes you at speed. With the Varia you'll have an early warning system on your head unit, which is often worth its weight in gold. 

There are three Varia radars. One without an inbuilt light, which I think is a little pointless nowadays, this one with an integrated light, and one that also has an integrated camera. Unless you are dead set on filming your rides for evidence the RTL 515 offers most of the benefits of the system without the additional upcharge, and so I think it's the better purchase.

In much the same way as the Boost-R, the Varia integrated light can react to what it is 'seeing', flaring up when it detects a vehicle to warn them of your presence, and dimming when riding in a group so as not to dazzle other riders. 

If you want to know more about the Varia system then head to our review Garmin Varia RCT715 rear light. It is the camera-enabled one, but the system is the same and that way you get a flavour of both options. 

Also consider

Front lights

Magicshine Ray 2600: Likely a viable contender for the best overall, but for now I haven't tested it sufficiently to make that call yet. Relatively inexpensive for the brightness, a wireless remote, auto-changing brightness, app customisation, mounts included for mounting it under an out front mount, and you can use it as a power bank too.

Trek Commuter Pro RT: Another really great option with a well-shaped beam. As the name suggests it's primarily designed for commuting, and so unlike the Outbound Detour you can't mount it under the bars, and you can't charge it up while it's in use. If those things don't bother you then it's a great buy and can be picked up a lot cheaper than the outbound option when it's on sale. 

Magicshine Monteer 12,000: Insanely bright - the brightest on the market in fact - but with such an enormous battery pack that it renders it massively overkill for all but extreme mountain bike scenarios. You can charge your laptop from it though.

Exposure Toro: To me this was caught somewhere between the brand's Race and Maxx-D models. If you want more light than the Race can offer then the Toro offers many of the same advantages, in a slightly bigger, slightly heavier package with another bulb.

Knog Blinder 900: Essentially the same as the Blinder 600, but brighter. If you like the sleek look then brilliant, and it's a decent light, I just found that for a light of this brightness you are perhaps more likely to sling it under a computer and the Ampp900 mounting system, while it requires an adapter, felt a little more secure.

Rear lights

Garmin Varia UT800: A smart headlight with the same name as the popular rear radar, the UT800 can automatically adjust the brightness of the beam depending on your speed. In order to achieve this it needs to be paired with a Garmin head unit, so Wahoo/Hammerhead users this is probably one to steer clear of. 

Magicshine SEEMEE 100AD: The little brotherx to the SEEMEE 300. Smaller, and without the downward facing light, but still packing a lot of features in, including a rear radar to automatically flare up when a car is detected. Another one with the potential to jump into the top list with some testing. 

Garmin Varia RCT715: Essentially the same as the Varia in the guide, but with an added camera. It's as good at being a radar and a rear light, but you'll be able to capture any particularly egregious drivers in the act. 

Exposure Blaze: Much like the Boost R, with the same features, just in a slightly bigger, slightly more expensive package and a corresponding jump in maximum brightness.

How to choose the best bike lights for you

After all my hard work you still aren't sure what you need? That's ok, let's work through it. If you are only commuting, or only really riding in the city then you really don't need an all-singing all-dancing option like the Exposure Strada. There's enough ambient lighting from the streetlights, cars, and businesses that being seen is usually more important than seeing. Something around 600 lumens like the Knog Blinder 600 is perfect for this, as it's inexpensive, bright enough, and portable between bikes. 

If you want something a bit brighter because, like me, your commute involves some unlit areas, then bump this up to 900 or 1200 lumens depending on how well lit you want. For years I used an 800 lumen light everywhere and while it wasn't ideal it did the job just fine. 

You only really need to start investing heavily in posh lights like the Exposure Strada, Exposure Race, or even the Outbound Detour if you're spending longer riding in the dark then the occasional trip to work. If your winter recreational rides only really start or finish in the dark for an hour or so then you can get away with a relatively inexpensive option. The Strada especially is a brilliant bit of kit, and if you can afford it then it can open up a whole new world of night time riding, but be honest about your use and you might save yourself some cash.

At the rear things are more simple. You don't need to worry about seeing, only being seen, so everything is much the same in terms of brightness. The Lezyne Strip Drive Pro is so bright to make it useful in the daytime, so don't be concerned that a rear light of 'only' 100 lumens or so isn't going to be visible in the dark; it is.

You basically have to choose your feature here: Price, burn time, maximum brightness, size, or added side visibility. Generally speaking each does one of these the best, but all are good enough to be considered excellent general use options. 

Smart lights are great if you can take the time to invest in setting them up. Rear radar is excellent from a safety standpoint, and auto-adjustment of brightness is a great way to conserve battery, but again, if you're only riding in the dark for an hour or so then do you need to pay for incredible battery saving tech?

What kind of bike light do I need?

Do I need a smart light?

What is a lumen?

How many lumens do I need for a bike light?

What is the law for bike lights?

Should my bike lights be flashing?

What is a StVZO light?

Show answer ▼

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StVZO bike lights are named as such because they meet the requirements of Straßenverkehrs-Zulassungs-Ordnung, German Road Traffic Registration Regulations. They're specifically designed to shine a focused beam of light that points to the road ahead, rather than emitting a wide beam that spreads outwards and upwards and puts oncoming road users at risk of being blinded.

Basically StVZO lights have a sharp cutoff at the top of the beam. Plenty of non-StVZO-compliant lights also have a cutoff beam - the Outbound Detour for instance - but they aren't technically legal in Germany even though they fulfil the same function. 

What about dynamo lights?

What is Lux and why aren't StVZO lights measured in Lumens?

Do I need backup lights?

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Legally speaking you don't need one, and if you're meticulous about charging your lights up then you may well never need one, but if you're forgetful it may be a good idea to carry a small spare for at least the rear. Also, sometimes things break. All the lights here are of decent quality, but wear and tear can affect all tech, and having a light that isn't working is legally and from a safety standpoint the same as having no light at all.

A lot of modern lights will have a 'get you home' feature where if the power drops below a certain level then the light will automatically drop to the lowest drain setting so it preserves what little juice is left. 

Rather than simply carrying two rear lights for example, I like to integrate an extra set in a neater way. Cateye makes some excellent tiny lights that clip into the ends of your handlebars. They are dirt cheap, and while prone to getting stolen they do make you appear much wider to cars than a single light source. 

Likewise, an additional helmet light is always helpful, and unusual lighting like that on offer from the Redshift Arclight pedals helps improve your visibility without messily clipping more things to your bike, and adds failsafes into your system should any single light fail.

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How should I mount my bike lights?

Do I need different lights for gravel riding?

What is an IP waterproof rating? IS IPX-6 good?

What battery type is best for a bike light?

How long should my bike light battery last?

Why are bike lights so expensive?

How do we test bike lights?

Testing the best bike lights means a lot of hours riding in the dark. After an initial inspection and rundown of the specs everything is pitted against the environment it was designed for, and then some. Commuter lights are thrown into rush hour traffic to and from the Cyclingnews office. Year round I go into the office twice a week, which is an hour riding each way in the dark in the winter months. Half of the commute is on inner city streets and main roads, and the other half on an unlit railway path.

Road lights head out onto unlit lanes to hunt for PR's while everyone else is on the turbo, and lights aimed at gravel riding head off into the woods to see if they can pass muster not only as a light source, but in terms of their ability to withstand muck and grime - I have killed a brand new light in under an hour before simply from getting it too wet. 

My usual rides are between two and four hours, though occasionally a lot longer even in winter, and daytime running the whole time tests out lights' daytime credentials. I also swap the lights between road, gravel, and commuting/general pub duties to see how they stack up not just in illumination but in useability, which is especially important with things like aero seatposts. 

Everything is weighed independently, without mounting hardware, as many lights come with a simple rubber strap, while others come with a range of options that vary in weight. 

So far I must have tried at least 20 different options, ranging from those bright enough to land a helicopter in the wilderness through to those barely able to challenge a tealight. Everything I recommend has to pass my own 'pub test', which is that, if my friend asked me in the pub what they should buy for a certain situation, this is what I'd point them to. 

Read more about how Cyclingnews tests for our product recommendations. 

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